Tag Archives: boro

A new rabbit hole: coiled basketry

It’s all Sally Pointer‘s fault. I was just quietly playing nicely with lime bast and nettle, then she wrote a book and then she co-hosted a lime bast working day with Chiz Harward of Froe Wood Coppice Products where I had a lot of fun and encountered things made of bast fibres that I hadn’t thought of making.
Baskets.
I have clear memories of the boho stores (we called them ‘hippy stores’) of the early 1970s, full of tie-dye t-shirts, Nepalese silver trinkets, psychedelic posters and southeast Asian and African craft items. Lots of coiled baskets, stacks of them in the corners or lined up full of stuff I can’t clearly visualise (polished rocks? soaps?), everything smelling so strongly of patchouli that you didn’t have to buy any yourself. I miss those days, everything was so new, so shiny, so desirable when seen with young eyes.
It never occurred to me that those baskets were handmade. I had no interest in baskets. Ha.

While we were househunting I spent evenings learning to make cordage from random materials, then learning to make baskets from the cordage.

Sally’s book includes instructions for making a coiled basket: wrap good lime bast around bundles of lime bast too weak for cordage, spiral the wrapped bundle out and up, stitching into the previous row to make a solid structure. I have LOTS of lime bast, I can do that.

The bundle of ‘waste’ lime bast is wrapped with a strip of ‘good’ bast. Stitch into the previous row to create a strong structure; do it more regularly than I did for a more elegant result. The stitching bast should be moistened for strength and flexibility.

It’s messy. Sheds lots of bits of lime bast onto my work desk, onto the floor, into my keyboard, onto my clothes and hence everywhere. Slow work, ideal for an evening in front of the tv, but too messy.
Wait. I can wrap other things with other things. I can wrap tapestry warp thrums (waste yarn produced when the tapestry is cut off the loom) with leftover or waste silk yarns.

This is the epitome of mottanai, the Japanese principle that drives boro repair and modern visible mending: it’s more than regrettable, it’s simply wrong to waste material that can be made into something useful. It’s slow, slow work but pulling the silk yarn tight around the core makes it shine, and the subtle variations in colour are beautiful. Inserts of other colours are the last few scraps of silk spun from fibre I dyed c. 2012, most of it used for tablet weaving. I wonder where that bag is?
You can see from the last photo that the constant handling of the forming basket has raised a halo from the silk yarn, making it fuzzy. This offended me: I wanted the stitching to be clear and crisp. I knew the fuzz could be singed off …

Many years ago we took Sara Lamb to the Camenzind silk mill in Switzerland to see commercial silk spinning. The spun yarn was de-gassed, the yarn passed at high speed over a red-hot iron plate to scorch off any halo so the final yarn was crisp and glossy. When we returned to the UK we tried to do something similar by passing spun yarn at high speed past a steady flame (heating iron red-hot on my cooker was NOT GOING TO HAPPEN). Needless to say we weren’t very successful, although we did have a lot of fun.

But how to do it? Careful application of my cook’s blowtorch, that’s how. Happy to risk everything in pursuit of perfection, that’s me.

Perfect.
Well. It’s not the shape I wanted. I had to undo and rework the little opening. Six strands of 18/2 cotton work up (relatively) quickly, but the coil is relatively coarse. Maybe if I make the bundle smaller?

Practice makes perfect. Four strands, wrapped with precious thrums of Sara Lamb’s hand-dyed, handspun silk.

Time for boro (sort of).

Five weeks pass in the blink of an eye, or so it seems. But not without tangible results. Some I can’t talk about because they’re for an article for Spin Off.

But I can talk about more boro-style patching. I have a Real Japanese vest/waistcoat/thing, purchased online for a low price because it had a damaged collar (which I regarded as an advantage because I wanted something to patch. We both win!) The vendor supplied a piece of Japanese indigo cloth and sashiko thread which I used to repair the collar. After about a year of frequent wear holes appeared on the back and on edge of the front facings. Time for more repairs! I dug out my stash of precious Japanese cotton scraps and started. I considered complex sashiko stitching – I need a lot of practice to gain precision and accuracy – but decided I wanted a faster repair. IMG_4846

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The reverse of the front is more worn, so the patch extends further on the underside, hence the tiny blue stars on the original fabric.

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img_4953.jpgVarious shades of blue embroidery thread in blocks of stitching. I included one of the remaining fragments of my favourite fabric, and left a circle clear of stitching for a semamori motif. Semamori are amuletic patterns stitched onto children’s garments that lack the protective line of stitches down the centre back. I decided that as the damage affected the original seam a semamori was deserved. This is handspun cotton, but I’m not happy with the thread – it should be thicker, easily done – and the quality of my stitching, so I’ll take it out and try again.